NEW ORLEANS — People donning skeleton masks and antlers on their heads gathered in New Orleans’ historic Treme neighborhood as the sun rose Tuesday, determined to beat an expected storm and celebrate Mardi Gras Day as they always have.
Members of the Northside Skull and Bones Gang woke up the city with drums and chants, spreading a message of peace.
“Mardi Gras is all about having these moments. This city is like nowhere else in the country right now,” said Kendall Calyen, 41, marveling at the 200-year-old tradition unfolding before his eyes.
Thousands of revelers sporting beads and outlandish costumes filled the streets as New Orleans prepared to celebrate just ahead of bad weather. Thunderstorms and winds up to 60 mph (100 kph) are expected throughout Tuesday, the National Weather Service said. In neighboring Jefferson Parish, officials canceled parades.
The city’s two biggest parades — hosted by the social clubs Krewe of Zulu and Krewe of Rex — moved up their start times, shortened their routes and are going without marching bands, New Orleans Police Superintendent Anne Kirkpatrick told reporters Monday. The parades were required to wrap up by 11:30 a.m. Tuesday to avoid worsening weather.
All along Jackson Avenue at the start of the Krewe of Zulu parade, family and friends gathered wearing Mardi Gras purple, gold and green. Many reclined in chairs, ready to enjoy the long haul. Impromptu barbecues wafted smoke from street corners and hip hop blared.
Jeremy Speed, a 40-year-old Krewe of Zulu member who grew up watching the parade, rode a float Tuesday and tossed his hand-painted coconuts to onlookers. He was disappointed that the route had been shortened due to weather but was grateful that the parades weren’t canceled altogether.
“At least they let us roll, they figured it out. They gave us a little something,” Speed said. “… Ain’t nothing like Zulu, the people that show up.”
Kirkpatrick warned paradegoers to not bring umbrellas, tents or “anything that could fly in the wind and cause mayhem.” Worsening weather could still lead to parades being canceled at the last minute, she added.
“I will cancel the parades at that point, no matter what time that is,” Kirkpatrick said. “I hold that trump card in which I will not hesitate to cancel — I won’t do it lightly, but I will do it.”
Two other parades which had been scheduled to roll through the city later on Tuesday with nearly 200 truck floats were postponed to Sunday, Kirkpatrick said.
Other cities along the Gulf Coast, such as Mobile, Alabama, and Pensacola, Florida, hold their own Mardi Gras Day parades.
The weeks of carnival culminate with feasting on Fat Tuesday, which precedes Ash Wednesday, the start of Lent. This year’s Mardi Gras Day fell unusually late in the year.
But the outsized culture of street parties, extravagant balls and spirited parades has evolved into a decidedly secular spectacle in the Big Easy.
The day kicks off with the North Side Skull and Bone Gang, a drum-playing group which for more than 200 years has gathered before sunrise to awaken neighbors in the Treme neighborhood.
Across the city, renowned Black masking Indians, whose spectacular beaded and bejeweled costumes are topped with feathered headdresses, take to the streets to represent a central part of African American culture in the city dating back to the 1800s.
One of the most beloved parades, the Krewe of Zulu, typically features hundreds of marching members tossing trinkets such as beads and highly coveted decorated coconuts to spectators.
And the Krewe of Rex, a social club led by the honorary king of carnival season, bears the traditional colors of purple, green and gold.
Extra security measures have been taken for this year’s festivities, which follow a devastating Jan. 1 truck attack that killed 14 people. The Department of Homeland Security upgraded Mardi Gras to its highest risk rating, leading to an influx of law enforcement agents. A zigzagging layout of barriers parallels the main parade route to guard against fast-moving vehicles and armored trucks; SWAT teams and helicopters will be present.